Makeup Tips
Content Two types of color skin toneThe sequential steps to apply makeupHow to apply foundationHow to use concealerHow to apply blushHow to shade and highlightHow to apply a finishing touch
Two types of color skin tone
Warm & Cool
| Warm |
Cool |
| REACTION TO SUN: tans easily |
REACTION TO SUN: burns easily |
| COMPLEXION: not too pale, not too dark, almost all medium shades in between, including olive, Mediterranean, and honey tones |
COMPLEXION: extreme shades on either end of the skin tone spectrum: pale, rosy or ruddy, or dark ebony |
| UNDERTONE: yellow |
UNDERTONE: pinkish-blue |
| BEST CLOTHING COLORS: bright colors (e.g., reds, blues) or earth tones (rust, olive, khaki, brown) |
BEST CLOTHING COLORS: deep jewel tones (burgundy, navy, deep indigo) or chalky pastels |
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BEST MAKEUP COLORS:
cheeks: apricot, peach, bronze
lips: bronze, plums, spice, cherry reds, apricot-browns, soft peach, soft beige, cocoa, toast, brown-peach, peachy-bronze |
BEST MAKEUP COLORS:
cheeks: pink, rosy
lips: blue-reds, berry, soft rose, mauve, burgundy, maroon-brown, raisin, eggplant, pink-browns |
| WORST COLORS: pinkish blue; dull, pale pinks |
WORST COLORS: yellow, orange |
The sequential steps to apply makeup
Foundation Concealer Eye Shadow Eyeliner Mascara Blush Powder Lipstick
How to apply foundation
- Shake the foundation bottle well. Dab some into the palm, and mix with a few drops of moisturizer (or apply moisturizer to your face first)
- Dip in your fingers or a triangular sponge, and dot on your cheeks, your chin, your forehead, and your nose.
- Smooth it over your face and gently blend in upward, outward motions, making sure not to forget the side of your nose, under your eyebrows, along the jawline, blending an inch below the jawline and chin.
- Gently blot the face with a tissue when you're done, to soak up any excess oil. Your foundation should feel light and natural. In fact, if you can feel it at all, you've put on too much.
If you water-based foundation dries out, add a few drops of alcohol-free toner and shake to get rid of clumps. A bit of toner will also make an oil-based foundation sheerer and less oily. (Note: oil-based foundations separate; shake each time before you use them.)
How to use concealer
- Put a small amount on your fourth fingertip and dot it on, moving from the outside corner of the eye inward, and back out again. The most important and easily overlooked place to put concealer is the inner corner of your top lid. Put a bit slightly below your dark circles to avoid the raccoon-like look.
- You can apply concealer over or under foundation, but no matter which way you choose, be sure to blend, blend, blend. If you prefer, use a triangular makeup sponge to blend in a gentle back-and-forth dotting motion. (Do not pull or rub: you'll stretch your delicate thin skin.)
- After applying, smile into the mirror and check that it's evenly applied and hasn't crept into the little lines around your eyes. If that happens, blot gently with a tissue.
How to apply blush
Blush warms with the heat of the body to a more intense hue, which is one reason to apply it very sparingly.
- First, throw away the brush that comes in the compact; it's too stiff and small to create a natural look. Use a good blush brush.
- Grin like a fool into the mirror, to see where the apple of your check appears.
- Dip your blush brush into the powder, shake off the excess, and brush it lightly over the apple of the cheek, moving toward the ear, with short, up-and-down vertical movements.
- Then blend it in with one soft horizontal stroke on top of the vertical strokes, and blot a tissue on top to remove the excess, or cover lightly with powder.
- If you're feeling particelarly washed out, you can brush a light stroke of blush across your forehead up by you hairline or just above the brows where the sun would hit your face. (But don't overdo it.)
If you use a cream or check gel, dab a tiny bit on the apple of each cheek and gently rub it in with your fingers. (It's best to start with too little and layer on more later.) Make sure to blend very, very well. Many makeup artists use a sponge or brush to apply cream blush, as well as foundation and powder to help blend it. Take a tiny bit on the tip of the brush or sponge and stroke upward gently. (If the idea of using a brush on liquid fomulations seems foreign, remember that artists paint with brushes, not sponges or powder puffs. And painting your face is an art.)
How to shade and highlight
- To hollow out the area under the checkbone, suck in your cheeks and stroke a shade of light brown or dark beige powder (a slightly darker, more neutral shade) from the middle of the cheek outward and up on your temples toward the top of the ear. Blend extremely well, then cover lightly with your face powder.
- If you want to attract attention to the center of your face, apply the powder on the cheeks against the side of the nose and slightly outward in a traangle that runs from the bottom of your nose to the corner of your eye.
- If you want your chin to look more prominent, stroke some bronzing powder on the ball of your chin and outward in both directions. Blend extremely well with a brush, dry sponge, or your fingers, and "set" with face powder.
Highlighting opens up an area you want to emphasize and brings it forward. You can use a slightly shimmering powder to highlight.
Whether you are shading or highlighting, the powder should go on after you apply foundation OR without foundation.
How to apply a finishing touch
- If you use loose powder, dip your powder brush into the powder. Shake or tissue off the excess.
- Dust the face lightly in upward strokes.
- Wipe the brush on a tissue, and then use it to remove excess powder from your face.
Apply pressed powder with a circular velour or sponge in light, upward strokes. Your velour or sponge won't last as long as the powder. If your applicator looks shiny and caked, or if hardly any powder comes off on your face when you glide the velour or sponge across, it's time to wash it or get a new supply. Otherwise, the oils from your skin will build up on the powder to create a shiny, hardened film. In that case, scrape off the surface with a knife, and the powder will be as good as new.
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